Automagic Anchor Chain Washdown

A Clean Anchor Chain?

Okay, so why would you want a clean anchor chain?  Two reasons, really.  First, if it's muddy, we really don't want all that muck getting in the anchor locker, and second, it's no so much clean, the goal is really to have no salt residue left on the chain.

Chain is zinc galvanized, so it is corrosion resistant, but there is only so much zinc on the steel chain, so the less work that zinc galvanization has to do to protect the underlying steel, the longer it will last!

Manual Cleaning

Up until now, we have been able to use a fresh-water hose and multi-position sprayer set to mist, which I would lock into "On" and then position the sprayer so that it would spray down through our bridle access opening to rinse the chain on the way up.

When you are in sandy anchoring spots, that is pretty much all you need; just enough to get the saltwater off.

Now, there have been times where we anchored in thick mud (the Chesapeake Bay, Maryland, USA and Cocorite, Port of Spain, Trinidad, I'm talking about you!), where the chain is not even visible through the tube of mud surrounding it! In these cases, the chain basically needs a full-force and continuous spray of high pressure water to really get it clean.  Fortunately, that is not our normal case.

A Better Way

Since the normal goal is just to rinse off the saltwater, I wanted to add a better way to do this.  For one, it's kind of cool to automate things, but also, there are times where it takes some time to position the boat so that the windlass can pull up the anchor chain, without trying to pull the boat forward.  When that happens, I usually don't bother to turn off the sprayer, but it is wasting what is basically fresh drinking water.

The Parts

The parts used to make this come together really centered around a few things. Tbe links are for what I used. Adjust quantities and dimensions are needed!

• 6mm black polyurethane drip irrigation tubing (I only needed about 12 feet)
  It is easy to work with, cheap, UV-resistant and flows plenty of water
• Some plastic hose clamps to hold the drip irrigation tubing in place
  There are a couple of ways to go with this, these are not what I used, but would be I were to do it again.
• Plastic drip irrigation quick-connect fittings
  These make the job go together easily and they are also cheap
• Misting Nozzles
  These plug into the 1/4" quick-connect fittings and create a fine mist.
• Some M3 stainless steel machine screws
  These go through the holes in the quick connect fittings to fasten everything securely.
• 15mm quick connect PEX fittings (Stem Tee) (Elbow) (NPT Male to Quick Connect)
  To tie into the boat's existing plumbing
• 15mm quick-connect Shut-off valve
  So that the system could be isolated in case a leak springs
• 15mm PEX tubing, blue (I ordered 2 ft, but 1 would have been plenty)
  A few small segments were also needed to tie into the boat's existing plumbing
• A 24V electric solenoid valve  (12V Version)
  This is powered when the windlass is powered to automatic the spraying.  Our boat house battery bank is 24V DC, but there are also 12V versions available.
• Brass Adapter - 1/4" NPT Male to 1/2" NPT Female
  To make the connection from the 15mm Push-to-Connect fitting to the solenoid
• Brass Adapter - 1/4" NPT Female to 6mm Push-to-Connect fitting
  To make the connection from the solenoid 
• Two M5 Stainless steel machine screws
  These mount the solenoid to the boat.
  
• Teflon Tape
  Used to both provide a leak free seal and also to insulate between dis-similar metals.
• Some anti-corrosion jointing compound (Duralac(probably hard to get in the US) and Tef-Gel are both good options)
  Use this to protect from bi-metallic corrosion.  If you don't already have this (which you should!)
• Marine Grade duplex 20-AWG wire (buy locally as you will not need a full spool, we needed 3')
  For connection from solenoid to anchor windlass control
• 1/4" Split wire loom (we needed 3 feet)
  Use this to route and protect the wiring going from the solenoid to the anchor windlass control box.
• Inline blade fuse holder (something like the one linked, smaller gauge is better to join to 20 AWG wire) - Adjust based on how exposed this will be for your installation
  To be installed just after the connection to power.
• 2A blade fuse (should be good for 12V or 24V solenoid valve)
  To protect the wiring from shorts
• Crimp connections and/or soldering implements
  Used to connect to the solenoid wires, fuse holder and connection points in windlass control box. We needed ring terminal connectors for that connection and solders and heat-shrinked everything else.

The Steps To Do This

This is obviously going to vary based on the boat, etc, and it also assumes that fresh water is already close to the anchor.  If you only have salt water washdown, don't bother with this solution.  The mist is not strong enough to remove mud, and the misting nozzles will quickly clog from the salt.

Water connection

We are lucky because on Mira, there is already fresh water in the storage locker directly starboard of the anchor windlass.  That is where the hose spigot is located.

On Mira, the valve to turn off/off water to the spigot is attached to the boat with 15mm quick connect PEX tubing.

Here were the basic steps:

1. Turn off the water pumps and de-pressurize the water system
2. Disassemble the existing pieces from between the bulkhead and the valve.
1. This usually involved pulling back on the release ring and pulling out the tubing.
3. Make use of the existing venting hole in the bulkhead to bring pressurized cold water into the windlass/chain locker.
4. Use the quick connect fittings and pieces of 15mm PEX to create a location for the on/off valve and solenoid valve in the anchor locker.
5. Make the connections to the solenoid with the adapters.  Make sure to observe the flow direction cast into the bottom of the solenoid valve and make sure to use Teflon Tape to coat the threads before assembly.

Added Stem Tee to pass PEX Tube into Anchor Locker

Solenoid Mounting

We used some long machine screws installed through the starboard bulkhead of the anchor locker to mount the solenoid after getting all of the PEX measured, cut and fitted together.

Getting the location just right is not easy.  We photo-copied the bottom of the solenoid valve to figure out the mounting hole spacing and then drilled the holes a little larger than needed to so they would be able to start without forcing or potentially cross-threading.

The valve is brass, so adding anti-corrosion jointing compound to the screw threads is very important!

Shut-off valve and Solenoid Valve in Anchor Locker

Mounting the misters

I attached the misters to the quick connect fittings (all tees except an elbow on the end).  I had the chain off the boat to make access easier, but I think it would have been better to have the chain in to make placement of the misters easier/more accurate.

I placed the plastic fittings where I wanted the misters located and then marked through the holes to know where to drill.  

I decided to drill and then tap the holes for the M3 screws so they would be threaded into the aluminum longeron on Mira.  This was an absolute pain and difficult to do without breaking taps because the sizes are so small.  If I were to do it again (and I might change it anyways), I would drill clearance holes, then use longer M3 (or 1/8" if you have to use imperial sizes) machine screws and just use a nylon insert lock nut on the back side.

With either approach, just make sure you don't have stainless against Aluminum without jointing compound or the aluminum will corrode in no time.  You may even want to use some nylon washers to insulate the heads and nuts from the aluminum, but at the least coat the threads with compound.

Misting sprayers at anchor resting position

Misting sprayer near anchor resting position

Misting sprayers near aft anchor chain roller

Plumbing in the Misters

The 6mm tubing is very flexible and it's possible to bend it in about a 30mm radius instead of using an elbow, but that kit linked above includes a good number of elbows and that makes the installation easier and also requires fewer hose mounting clips, so that's what I did.

Figure out how you want the tubing mounting (using the adhesive backed mounting clamps) and get the lengths exactly as you want them.  You will have plenty of extra tubing, so don't be afraid to re-cut if you are not happy with the length.  MAKE SURE they are fully seated in the quick-connect fittings, it is very easy for them to not be in all the way, which means they will let loose under pressure.

After you are happy with the layout, thoroughly clean the surface to which the hose clamps will mount and then clip the clamp onto the hose and press firmly in place for about 15 seconds.

Plumbing to the Solenoid

The 6mm tubing now exists under the longeron and must get to the quick connect fitting on the outlet of the solenoid valve. This means drilling a hole through the hull.  For now, we simply have a 6mm hole drilled through the hull to get the tube inside.  It is a very tight fit so water ingress is all but impossible.  We also have a foam-core boat, so it is also not as big a concern.  If you have a wood cored boat, it is imperative to drill the hole larger (6.5mm) and then coat the inside of the hole with an epoxy (such as a hull primer).  When dry, insert the tubing and then seal it with sealant for good measure.

We taper-cut a longer piece of 6mm and forced it into the opening and it is a very, very tight fit.  Eventually (and when I can find the hardware), we will replace this with two 6mm ID grommets, one mounted from the outside, one from the inside, both epoxied in and sealing the interior foam core.

We used an elbow on the outside and inside of the hull to keep the tubing tidy and less likely to get snagged by something.

Figure out your routing and install more adhesive hose clamps along the inside to route the line.

Cut a nice clean edge at the right length and then insert into the outlet of the solenoid.

Attachment of 6mm tubing and entry into hull

Internal routing of 6mm tubing to solenoid valve

Wiring from the Solenoid to the Windlass Controller

This is obviously going to vary by installation.

We have a Lofrans Tigress 1500W, 24V windlass.  It has a control box mounting in the area behind the anchor locker (where out glassed-in diesel tanks are located). 

I soldered in a length of duplex wire to the pair of wires coming from the solenoid (the connections on this solenoid are not polarized, as it just powers an electromagnetic coil and pulls up on a ferrous element).

This was then placed into split wire loom and routed into one of the wire glands going into the windlass control box. 

Once inside the box, the black wire was terminated to the ground connection in the control box. I cut and stripped the wire and then crimped on a heat-shrinkable ring-terminal. Our control box contains a large fusible link in the ground path.  I attached the ground lug to the windlass side of the fusible link.

The red lead was connected via butt splice crimp connector to the fuse holder (after trimming the lead length of the fuse holder down).

On the other side of the fuse holder, I crimped a ring terminal that would attach to the output of the windlass control solenoid.

Loomed cable routing from anchor locker to windlass control box

Making the Actual Connections 

Our windlass has three terminals; a ground, a upward rotation terminal and a downward rotation terminal.  The solenoid for the windlass takes switch input from the deck-mounted buttons and the helm mounted button/chain counter and then based on those inputs activates the solenoid (relay) to send 24V to either the up or down input on the windlass. The ground terminal is always connected to vessel ground.

I believe that there are two sets of windings in this type of windlass, one for clockwise rotation and another for anti-clockwise rotation. If you have a two-wire windlass, you have one winding in the motor and a more complicated solenoid is required to reverse the polarity between wanting to go up or down with the chain.

The Easier and Safer Connection

The easier and safer answer for both is to have the solenoid activate if the chain is going up or down.  Does this waste water: yes, but a very small amount, since misters really don't dispense that much volume of water.

The reason this is the safer connection, is because the solenoid valve is powered by the windlass solenoid.  There is an extra 1A (less, really) of power consumption for the solenoid valve on what is on the order of 100A going to the windlass.

The connection is easier, because you don't have to figure out how wires from deck mounted buttons are powered.  You just connect the solenoid valve to the wires going to the windlass and you are all set.

But on a Three Wire Windlass, There Is An Up Wire?!

You may be thinking, I already have a dedicated "Up" terminal to which I can connect, so I can just connect to that wire and it will only run when going up.

I thought that as first too, however, the two windings that exist within the windlass still exist next to each other.  An electric motor and an electric dynamo/(generator) are basically the same thing.  In the motor, an electric current is being applied to windings, and the magnetic flux is causing the rotor of that motor to spin.  In a dynamo, the rotor is being spun by and outside force and the magnetic flux generated by this is induced into the windings and generates power.  

So, when the down winding is being power to create motive force (as a motor, moving the chain down), the other up winding is acting as the winding of a dynamo and creating voltage!  Pretty neat and in this case, pretty annoying!

There Has to Be a Solution For This!

There is a solution for this, actually a couple, and they vary from terrible to possible.

Option 1: Use a diode

Insert a diode between the windlass solenoid UP output and the windlass Up input and then connect the solenoid valve power between the windlass solenoid and diode.

This prevents power from coming FROM the windlass up terminal when the down motor wincing is being powered.  The only way the solenoid valve can be powered is from power coming through the windlass solenoid, not from the motor acting as a dynamo.

This is a terrible solution because of the size that the diode would have to be.  (Read, huge) Also, it reduces the voltage getting to the windlass motors, which is harder on the motor and will reduce its life.  It also will cause the diode to create heat.  This can be ruled out as a stupid/terrible option.

Option 2: Power the valve from the Up Switch

Powering the solenoid valve directly from the "UP" switch(es) is an option; it is basically powering the solenoid from the input side of the windlass solenoid, but it carries some risks.  It will takes some research to make sure that the exact wiring is understood (what voltage, is it fused, can the switch(es) handle the added current?)  If it is already fused, it may be possible to remove the added fuse, but there is no harm in keeping it.  If the voltage is not the same, that would be weird, but possible and then the solenoid valve may need to be different.  The big one is "can the switch(es) handle the added current (about 1A from my measurements) of running the solenoid valve in addition to the windlass solenoid.

The biggest challenge is probably going to be finding out what the switches (deck mounted and control panel/chain counter) are rated for.  While a stand-alone, general purpose switch you buy will certainly have these ratings, the ratings for a switch part of a "windlass-system" likely will not.  

You may be able to make sure educated guesses, for example, I can look at the contact area for the deck mounted switches and see that they can handle a lot of current, probably 10A, but for the ones in the controller at the helm, that is a lot harder, especially without taking the controller apart.  What is switching the current? A relay? A output from a microcontroller (unlikely)? A FET (Field Effect Transistor)?

If you can find the switch ratings, you will then have to find out how much current the windlass solenoid inputs take and see if there is another 1A of headroom so that the solenoid valve can be powered.

Or you can just try it and risk damaging your boat, the controller or the switches.

So, this option is possible, but takes either a good amount of research or some risk.

Option 3: Power the valve from a small relay connected to the Up Switch.

This is like option 2, except we are reducing the added power going through the Up switch(es) by only having to power the coil of a relay.  

Technically, the same research as above should be done, however in practice, the amount of current required to power the relay coil will be around 0.05A. It is incredibly likely that at least this amount of headroom exists.

The connections are not complicated, but the physical space of the relay, while not large, must be accommodated.  In short, the coil is connected to the UP switch input of the windlass solenoid and to the ground.  The normally open switch connections on the relay are connected to 24V, after the 2A fuse and then to the solenoid valve power.

This is the best option, thought the most complicated.

Summary of Options

Option 1 is terrible and should not be considered.

Option 2 could be an easy and safe method, but will take some research of values that may not be findable.

Option 3 is the best option if the current ratings and usage values can't be found.  The risk of switching too much current through the switches is not zero, but wince the amount of power for a relay is so small, the risk is exceptionally low.

Summary of the Project

The project was not overly complicated, but that was only because we were on the hard to do it.  Trying to do this while standing in a dinghy, etc. would have been really terrible.  We have still yet to launch so we have only been able to test the system by lowering and raising the anchor in the yard. 

I'll try to post an update after we have actually used this for real and also report back how the system has held up.

Updates!

Research into ratings

I would really like to have the solenoid valve and therefore the sprayers only operate when the anchor is being raised.  In order to do that I need to implement Option 2 or 3 above.

Here is what I need and what I've found:

• Lofrans Footswitch current rating: 4A - Found under Section 2 of the Installation and User's Manaul
• Lofrans IRIS 2 helm controller and chain counter Up/Down output rating: Not specified
• Lofrans Control Box (1500W, 24V) current draw: Not specified

Given that two of the three values are not given, I've reached out to Lofrans Tech Support to see if I can get them.  I could measure the input current on the Control Box, but without knowing the actual output rating for the IRIS 2, it is of little value.

Running from Hurricane Beryl

We made it to Grenada!

Quick note:
Jump to the bottom if you want to help us cruisers help those impacted by Beryl in the West Indies

After an overnight sail from Martinique, we finally got all situated on a mooring ball in True Blue Bay and then I dinghied over to get us cleared-in.  I went back to the boat.  A tropical wave was very far east of Grenada, but those always turn north of Grenada or fizzle out this early in the year...  This was on the morning of Friday, June 28.

This Tropical Disturbance is not doing what its supposed to

New updates and projected tracks are available every 6 hours, so every 6 hours we would take another look and make sure we were in the clear.  As we went to bed Friday night, after our 25 hour sail, we weren't feeling in the clear.

By the next morning, things were not looking better.  Actually, they were looking worse. Most of the tracks had the eye of the storm going north of Grenada, but there was always a straggler or two that stayed south of Grenada. Our mooring in on the south of Grenada and faces open ocean to the south. And the storm was quickly moving from Tropical Wave to Tropical Depression to Tropical Storm to "probably going to be a hurricane soon and a big one not too long after that".

Several complications to work through.  First, we have to clear out of Grenada before being able to clear into another. When you clear out, you get an Exit Zarpe; a document that basically says you left in good standing from a country.  It was Saturday, Customs and Immigration was open, but only until 2:00PM.  have to decide fast.

The next complication is bringing a pet into another country. There are processes to be followed and they take time. Fortunately, it turns out there is a taxi/tour driver in Trinidad that has become the go-to guy for helping cruisers visit his country. (Jesse James).  We were told he was the guy to reach out to to figure out our options.

We were not the only ones trying to come with a pet and he was talking with government officials to come up with a solution.  Usually, you need to provide a Health Certificate (recent to very recent) and proof of vaccinations.  You apply for a pet importation permit and wait three to 14 days and you are good to show all this when checking in. 

He convinced us that there would be a solution and that we should head to Trinidad.  Worst case, in most countries, you can fly a yellow Q (Quarantine) flag, never leave the boat and just anchor for safe haven. That was our fallback, because turning around (duh, hurricane?) or going further south (not insured for that) was not an option!

We discussed it for a while (not wanting to do another long sail so soon after the previous one) but ultimately decided it would be the safer choice.

Off to the customs office I went to check out, then we started filling out and emailing the forms needed to go to Trinidad.

We were not the only sailors in Grenada with that same idea.  The Customs office was busy with everyone that came in there to clear out.

We decided to leave at around 3:30 on Sunday morning.  We ate dinner and got a couple hours of sleep before the alarm got us up.

Beryl is a named Storm

When we got up at 3:00 and checked the weather, our decision was confirmed.  Still looking worse for Grenada. We got ourselves ready and decided to leave at about 4:00 to leave around the same time as some other cruisers we met that were doing the same thing.

At normal getting up time, every other cruiser on Grenada got up and decided it was not longer the hurricane-free, safe haven it usually has been.  They all decided to leave and make the trek to Trinidad, en masse.  Between 100 and 200 boats worth!

[picture]

The sail was reasonable and uneventful with varying wind and current over the trip. 

We arrived into Trinidad around 5:00pm on Sunday.  Customs and Immigration were open on Sunday, but only until 4:00pm.  This was kind of a good thing, as all we could do was find a good place to anchor and get the boat ready for whatever weather may come our way.

We opted for a further in anchorage that we expected would be less used, and therefore we wouldn't have to worry about the stream of boats arriving in the dark after we went to bed.  It was exposed to the South and West, which meant a LONG distance to land, which gives wind-driven waves plenty of time to build.  Like most things in boating, a compromise. We expected this would result in some discomfort, but no "bumps in the night".

Trinidad and Jesse James to the rescue

Without going into too much detail, the support given by Trinidad, in general, and Jesse James, in particular, has been the stuff of legend. Numerous WhatsApp groups to communicate (even one for boats with pets), relaxation of regulations to make clearing in easier, and even free shuttle buses to help get people in distant anchorages into the customs and immigration offices!

Trinidad is unfortunately plagued by gang violence and has become a gateway for drugs coming from South America and going to the US. There are many that want to change this and replace those elements with a thriving tourist economy. This was a perfect opportunity for Trinidad to make a great first impression with a new set of tourists!

From Tropical Wave to Cat 4 Hurricane, quickly

On Sunday around noon, Beryl was as close as it was going to get.  As feared, the waves where we were anchored built to in the range of 3 to 5 feet. In 5 meters of water, we put out 60 meters of chain. We would normally use less than half that.  Another benefit to being in a lesser used anchorage!

Beryl was absolutely destroying the Grenadian island of Carriacou, with the eye travelling directly over it.  At one point, you can see the entire island from a satellite shot while it is within the eye!

[image]

Grenada and Union Island (part of St Vincent and the Grenadines) also took heavy damage.

Here in Trinidad, we are aware of one boat that was coming in (too?) late and ended up with shredded sails, a dead engine and a missing anchor.  Oh and it was drifting into Venezuelan waters. Several locals, overseen by the Trinidad and Tobago Coast Guard went out to retrieve the boat and it was tied up to a dock with the help of several volunteer cruisers.

All in all, those that came to Trinidad were un-scathed.

Giving Back

On the whole, cruisers are nothing if not generous and helpful.  After seeing the destruction of so many favorite destinations, it didn't take long for talk to come up of bringing back needed donations on the way back north.  A way to pay forward the good will we all received from Trinidad!

I've decided to offer my spreadsheet services to help coordinate this effort (and we'll bring back supplies, too). 

Please take a look at my page that explains how you can help (donation of items, donation to GoFundMe, or delivery service to an island)

Let me know in the comments if you have any questions!

Fuel tank selection valves on a catamaran

Giving you more fuel tank options 

One of the great things about catamarans is the redundancy in just about every system.  Fuel tanks are no exception and having a tank for each engine is nice, but it can be made nicer with a transfer pump or better yet, the ability to pick the tank that each engine pulls its diesel from.

But why?

There are couple of reasons that you may want to do this. 

Maybe one engine is not working and you want to be able to go further by using fuel from both tanks for the engine that is working.

If you are getting fuel from an area where this is concern about the quality, you can fill one tank with the suspect fuel, and if it in fact turns out to be bad, you still have the other tank that is known good to fall back on.

We normally run both engines from one tank just so that it is a little bit easier to fill when the time comes.  This is a minor issue on our Vision 444, since the two fuel tanks are just in front of the base of the mast. The filler hose doesn't have to move far to fill one versus the other, but it's still nice to only have to open one tank filler!  By doing this, if we want to run from diesel injector cleaner through the system, we only have to add it to one tank to do so.  

I'm convinced, what's it take?

The gotcha

One thing that must be understood first, is that in a diesel engine, diesel fuel flows in a loop, unlike a gasoline engine. The low pressure pump may deliver 4 liters per hour to the engine, but only a portion of that is used in combustion and the rest must be returned to the tank from which it came.

What exactly happens? (skip if you don't care)

A low pressure, higher volume pump brings fuel into the engine's fuel circuit.  This pump can be either electric, or mechanical (operated by lever on the pump being operated by a fuel cam within the engine). Then a high pressure, low volume pump increases the pressure to be enough to be injected into an already pressurized cylinder or into a pre-cylinder area (indirect injection). Either way, the pressure from this pump can be on the order of 2500psi in an indirect injection engine (like our Nanni engine) or can be as high as 30,000psi in a common rail engine (like the newest Yanmars).  Because of these huge pressures, if too much fuel is delivered, something is going to break.  Diesel injectors have a valve, almost like a blow-off valve in a turbocharger; pressure above a set point escapes and leads to a tube that returns to the fuel tank. The added benefit is that creating all this pressure increases heat; some extra heat is dissipated as the fuel returns to the tank in the return line.

A special valve

So in order to make a fuel selector valve for a diesel engine to work, it must switch two sets of ports when the valve is manipulated.  It's equivalent to a double pole, double throw electrical switch.

Both valves are mounted to the top of our fuel tanks and there is basically a port engine valve and a starboard engine valve.  Changing the valves changes from which tank that engine pulls (and deposits) its fuel.

Here is what the configuration looks like in diagram form:

The Parts

In addition to the valves, there are also some fittings that are required. You may need to adjust the hose barb sizes to fit the fuel lines in your boat, but don't try to get combo right angle barb fittings!!! Mainly because you won't be able to thread them into the valve.  The valves, elbows and barbs have to be assembled in a particular order in order to make it possible.

The following parts assume that the fuel lines are 8mm / 5/16" inside diameter. If yours are not, adjust those fittings accordingly.

Groco 6-Port NPT Bronze Fuel Valve 1/2 Main - 3/8 Return (Order 2)

2 Pack Brass Hose Fitting, Adapter,5/16" Barb x 1/2" NPT Male Pipe (Order 3)

2 Pack Brass Hose Fitting, Adapter, 5/16" Barb x 3/8" NPT Male Pipe (Order 2)

Joywayus Brass Hose Fitting,90 Degree Elbow,5/16" Barb x 3/8" NPT Male Pipe Water/Fuel/Air(Pack of 2)

Litorange 2 PCS Metals Brass Pipe Fitting 90 Degree Barstock Street Elbow 1/2" NPT Male Pipe x 1/2" NPT Female Pipe

Gasoila - SS04 Soft-Set Pipe Thread Sealant with PTFE Paste, Non Hardening, -100 to 600 Degree F, 1/4 Pint Brush

If your fuel tank pickups only have one supply and one return fitting, you will also need the following Y connectors.

Quickun 5/16" ID Hose Brab, Brass Shaped Y 3 Ways Barbed Hose Fitting Intersection Split Splicer Joint Union Adapter for Water/Fuel/Air (Pack of 4)

MarineNow Premium Marine Grade 316 Stainless Steel Hose Clamps 12.7 mm Band, Choose Size and Pack Quantity [SAE:8 (11-23mm,7/16"-15/16"), 25-Pack]

Continental 65127 5/16" ID Fuel Hose - 50 psi - SAE 30R7 - 25' Length

 You will likely not need 25'.  You can also get a high quality fuel hose at a marine or auto store.

1/2-Inch Plastic Pipe Clamp, 2-Hole Mount Strap for 5/8" OD Pipe (10-Pack)- Color may vary

Assembly Order

Because of the closeness of the fittings, you will have to assemble the valves in a specific order.  

Make sure to apply a coating a thread sealant to all male threads before assembly and tighten each connection with two wrenches. Only apply force to the "flats" of the fittings. DO NOT apply force to the barbs; they will break off.

1. Figure out where you are going to mount the valves so you know which way 90 degree fittings should be oriented to make installation easier.
2. Insert the 90 degree 3/8" barb into Port 4 (the smaller, top threaded opening). Tighten until the barb is pointing either towards port 5 or port 6 (whichever works better for your installation)
3. Insert the 1/2" street elbow into Port 3 (the larger, top threaded opening). Tighten until the opening is pointing in the orientation that works for your installation. (Do not point it towards the lever.)
4. You will now have 5 openings remaining (two 3/8" and three 1/2").  Fill these will the appropriate barbs and fully tighten.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 for your other valve.

Installation

Lay out each of the following paths and cut fuel line to make that connection.  Place a hose clamp onto each end of each hose segment.  Do not tighten until everything is connected and you are happy with the layout. This is one plus to ordering extra fuel hose; you can redo any that will make the layout cleaner.

If you only have one fuel supply and one return connection per tank, begin by connecting a length of hose to those connections and placing a "Y" onto the other end of the hose.

Do the following for each valve assembly:

Port 1 will go to the "same side" tank fuel supply pickup.

Notes:
The pickup will be the tube that goes to the bottom of the tank.
If you only have one fuel supply pickup per tank, it will first have to go to the same-side pickup "Y".)

Port 2 will go to the "opposite side" fuel supply pickup

Notes:
The pickup will be the tube that goes to the bottom of the tank.
If you only have one fuel supply pickup per tank, it will first have to go to a opposite-side pickup "Y".)

Port 3 will go to the engine supply line.

Port 4 will go to the engine return line.

Port 5 will go to the "same side" tank fuel return.
Note:
If you only have one fuel return per tank, it will first have to go to a same-side return "Y".)

Port 6 will go to the "opposite side" tank fuel return.
Note:
If you only have one fuel return per tank, it will first have to go to a opposite-side return "Y".)

When you are happy with the layout and hose lengths, secure the hose to surfaces with plastic pipe clamps and tighten all fuel line hose clamps securely.

Labeling, labeling, labeling.

Label the valves so you will quickly know how to set them for the desired operation.

When the handle is facing towards port 1, the fuel is shut off.

When the handle is facing towards port 3 (pointing out), fuel is being pulled from the "same-side" tank.

When the handle is facing towards port 2, fuel is being pulled from the "opposite-side" tank.

Instructions for use

Starboard side valve in Mia

Bleed the system

You will now have to bleed the fuel supply system.  Air will exist in each hose that is proceeding to the valve and from each hose that is supplying fuel to the engine.  All of that air needs to be removed. If you ever run the engines until you run out of fuel, you should make sure that you bleed the system and let the engines idle for 10 or more minutes to make sure that all air has been purged.

Normally, a diesel engine will have a primer lever on it as well as a fuel system bleed screw located near the primary fuel filter.  Make sure you know where there are for your engine.

1. Set both valves to supply fuel from the "same-side" as the engine, ie., port from port, starboard from starboard.
2. If your fuel tanks are below your engines, you may have an electric pump that needs to be powered.
3. Open the bleed screw for the port engine
4. Place a container under your fuel filter to catch the excess fuel; it may be a lot depending on how far the tanks are from your engines.
5. Repeatedly press the Fuel primer level until fuel begins to flow from the bleed screw. Normally, once flowing, it will continue.  Let this continue until you see bubbles pass through and then it runs clear without bubbles.
6. Close the bleed screw.
7. Repeat steps 2-6 for the starboard engine.
   
8. Switch the fuel valves to supply fuel from the "Opposite-side" as the engine, ie., port from starboard, starboard from port.
9. Repeat steps 2-6 for the port engine.
10. Repeat steps 2-6 for the starboard engine.
11. Turn off any electric pump that may have been turned on.
12. The system is now blead.

Test the system

It is a good idea to test the system, as one of two bad things will happen if a connection is wrong. First, your engine will stop, undoubtedly at the worst possible time. Second, you will have swapped the return lines and you will eventually overfill one tank and dump diesel into the water.

Here is one suggestion for testing:

• Disconnect the return hose that goes from each valve and have it go into a small container.
  Run one engine at a time, and make sure that fuel would be returning to the tank you expect.
  Reconnect the hoses.
• To make sure that fuel is being pulled from where you expect, start with tanks that are adequately full, and make a note of the starting fuel gauge level.  Run both engines from one side.  Make sure that only the expected tank level decreases.
• During the first couple of engine uses after installing, make sure that neither tank increases in fuel level.

Moved on to Eleuthera

After a little over a week in The Abacos, we waited for a good weather day to make the trip from Little Harbour to Spanish Wells. Wednesday was the day. The wind was forecasted to swing to northerly, which meant an entrance through the narrow and exposed-to-the-north Ridley Head Channel would not be a great idea. We instead pointed for the further but safer Little Egg Island passage. 

We were still with Umbono, Mira’s sister boat and her owners, Pierre and Kris. 

We left at about 8:00 am with a light breeze from the west. Before long that picked up and we hoisted the main and Code 55 and motor sailed for an hour or so. Then the wind swung as forecast and built more. We put away those sails and raised the asymmetrical spinnaker with 15+ knots almost right behind us. 

The wind continued to build to 18,19, with gusts to 22 knts. The asymmetrical is good to about 20 knots, but since we were downwind running, surfing down waves and generally hauling ass, our apparent wind never went above 15 knts, even at the bottom of waves, so the sail wasn’t being stressed nearly as much as the true wind speed indicated. 

On the trip we were routinely in the 8-9s, sometimes consistently in the low 10s and on one particularly fast surf down a wave, hit 13.1knts! We saw apparent wind speeds of 6! (This is what the wind appears to be because our forward speed is negating some of the true wind speed). 

It ended up being a beautiful sailing day; we even went back to the main (reefed since we would be heading towards the wind after turning, thereby making the apparent wind be faster than the true wind speed) and jib as we entered the protected bay south of Royal Island.

We even caught a nice-sized, male Mahi Mahi on the trip on our rod and reel which we were trolling with. It put up quite a fight on the way in but gave us 8 beautiful fillets. 

Chuck was most excited about our catch!

Kris and Pierre were fighting with some sail issues so motored longer than we did and headed for the Bridge Point entrance, to the Northeast of the town of Spanish Wells. We went the longer route but because we were sailing so fast at that wind angle, we both arrived to Spanish Wells within about 2 minutes of each other (after a trip of about 60NM)!

We even had a pod of 4 dolphins swim by both our boats as we set the anchors. 

There is some great snorkeling around here so hopefully we’ll be able to check a bunch out in the coming days.

We spent Thursday walking around Spanish Wells and checked out some shops and got lunch and a drink at Budda’s Snack Shack. 

Then back to Mira to watch a nice sunset from the roof. 

Quick history lesson: Spanish Wells was so named because it was once a Spanish outpost where early sailing ships would stop before their return from the New World with gold and silver riches. They would stop to get provisions (including filling their water supply) before the long trip to Spain. 

Gulf Stream Crossing - Check!

Synopsys: I would be lying if I said it was smooth sailing.  

Left Thunderbird

We left Thunderbolt, a suburb of Savannah, around 10:00 on the 20th and started the two hour motor down the river to get to the Atlantic. We got a nice send off by dolphins on the way but quickly remembered how far Savannah is inland for such a major port.

Anyways we made it to the Atlantic and the waves had certainly settled down from where they were a few days ago, but that's not really saying much, as we later found out that cruise ships were waiting in Freeport extra days for the weather to calm down!

Waves were pretty short period and around 4-5' close to shore.  They got larger, but at least longer period as we got further offshore. They were hitting us on the beam, maybe a little forward, which does not result in a super pleasant sail. This was proved out because Abe became seasick soon after we entered this weather and went down to his cabin to rest around 1PM on the 20th.  Sue starting feeling less than ideal around 5PM.  

No problem, I'll buckle down and take some longer shifts until they started feeling better. That was a great plan in theory.  In practice, I decided to check on Abe 24 hours later when he hadn't surfaced since. He was awake, but every time he tried to get out of bed, no bueno. Sue was a little better. She was feeling off, but was able to take couple hour shifts at the helm before needing to take a break.  

Single-handing?

Long story short, Abe was basically confined to his bed for almost 72 hours because of how hard this bout of seasickness hit him!  Sue starting doing better on the third day as we made it across the Gulf Stream and things started to calm down.  This is all relative, we were done with the 8-9 foot waves and back to 3-5 footers.

We did manage to sail for almost the entire time and were making good progress if not for the current, which ran at up to 4 knots against us at times.  The expected 48 hour trip turned into 72 hours.  

Land!

We got into Bahamian waters around midnight on the 22nd and still had about 6-7 hours to get to Lucaya, a suburb of Freeport and a friendlier place to clear-in than the very large, commercial port of Freeport.

Navigating close to shore in The Bahamas when dark is generally considered a terrible idea. While there are channels between islands that are a mile deep, as you get close to land, that can quickly drop to 5' or less and there are coral heads. They are not soft. We were happy to be arriving near Lucaya just as the sun was rising, so we wouldn't have to just wait around for daylight. Actually, thinking back and through sheer luck, the timing was pretty much perfect.

The Bahamas

The weather the day we arrived was really nice. We made our way into the relatively narrow channel that goes to Lucaya, then a quirk turn to starboard and the Grand Bahama Yacht Club, where we could check-in to the country, was right there. 

We used their online portal to enter all of our clearing-in information so the visit to the Customs and Immigration office only took about 20 minutes. $300 and we are good to be in The Bahamas for up to 3 months. Of course, as we are on our way back to the boat to shove-off and go the last little bit to the dock-space we rented, the dockhand informed us that they now charge a $50 landing fee.  Of course everything online and in the cruising guidebooks says no charge. After arguing for a few minutes got nowhere, we paid and moved on.  

Scarborough Docks and Villas

We try to anchor whenever possible, however, that's not an option in Lucaya. Fortunately, we stumbled across an entry in AquaMap (BTW, we love this app; if you are a cruiser, you need to use this software!) for what ended up being a fantastic stop for a very fair $75/night, including water, trash and electricity. The owner, Giles, met us at the dock and we were quickly tied up and the trip was done!

Time to Recover

After securing lines and making sure everything was situated, I crashed for a few hours! Abe had a flight the day we arrived and Giles was nice enough to offer to drive him to the airport, so we did make sure we were up to send him off and thank him for travelling with us and then I'm pretty sure we turned in super early to get ourselves back to good.